![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() While learning to harness the violence of the waves, Bill is constantly getting into racialised fights at and after school. Then 13, Bill was soon spending all his free time in the ocean, where “everything… was disturbingly interlaced with everything else”. To this fully qualified outsider – I live by the ocean without ever having set thigh in it, but I have seen Point Break three times – Barbarian Days gradually assumes the form of a hefty masterpiece.įinnegan learned to surf in southern California but got his big break after his dad’s work took the family to Hawaii in 1966. Having taken a full seven years to complete, the novella-length piece was eventually published in the New Yorker, where it quickly gained classic status among surfers and readers alike – the two are stereotypically if not mutually exclusive. W hen William Finnegan was struggling to write an article about the San Francisco surf scene in the 1980s he found himself “wondering how much of the thing I could hope to convey to outsiders”. ![]()
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